Water Problems

Catagories:
About Our Company	About Our Products Generally	About Our sulfur Removers	About Our Iron & Manganese Removers
About Our Catalytic Water Conditioners	About Salt Damage to Plants & Crops	About Our Chlorine, Chlorimines & Organic Chemical Removers	About Our Ultra Violet (UV) Disinfection System
About Our pH Neutralizers	About Our Big Blue Filters	About Our Sand Eliminators	About Our Aqua Pure Hot Water Protection System

Click a catagory, then a question to view the answer.

• About Our Company

  • How long have you been in business?

    We’ve been a family owned and operated business since 1982.

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  • What is the “Water Quality Association” that you’re a member of?

    The WQA is the largest not-for-profit international trade association representing all aspects of the water treatment industry with an emphasis on research and education, and with a stringent code of ethics that requires its members to exercise the highest standards of honesty, integrity, fair dealing and professionalism in the water quality improvement industry.

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  • Why do you insist that I have my water tested by your company for free or by a reputable lab?

    You can’t fix any problem if you don’t know what it is! Testing identifies your water problems so we can then recommend the right products to solve them completely-guaranteed.

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  • Why can’t I buy your products over the internet?

    Mass marketing can result in mass sales, but we want you to buy the right products that will solve your particular problems, and this requires not only testing but personal one-on-one interaction between our knowledgeable water treatment professionals and you, the customer. Some say we’re “missing the boat” because there’s so much money in selling on-line, but our reputation is very important to us and we want every sale to result in a satisfied customer the first time, every time.

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  • What are the terms and conditions of your Money-Back Guarantee?

    As you may have noticed, we are one of the very few water treatment companies that offer a Money-Back Guarantee. We have a 90 day from date of purchase money-back guarantee for our products, exclusive of items that could be used up in 90 days, Special Orders and Commercial Orders as stated herein. CONDITIONS:
    Provided you have your water tested (either by us or by an independent lab), test your flow rate (as we instruct you on our website and in our brochure), consult with us to be sure you buy the right product(s), purchase the recommended equipment directly from us, and install and use our equipment as directed, we absolutely guarantee our equipment will solve your water problems. If not, call us for a return authorization number, send it back to us undamaged & prepaid within 90 days of purchase for a complete refund of your purchase price less shipping costs. Please always insure a return for your protection since the risk of damage or loss is on you until it is received by us.
    Exceptions: Aqua-Pure and Big Blue Filters & their accessories are excluded since conceivably they could be spent or used up within 90 days.
    Special Orders are excluded.
    Commercial Flanged Care Free Water Conditioners are also special order and are excluded from the Money-Back guarantee but they do carry a Manufacturer's LIFETIME WARRANTY against manufacturing defects.

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• About Our Products Generally

  • How do I know what’s in my water?

    You must have your water tested. We can test your water at No Charge for total Hardness, pH, Iron (Fe), Total Dissolved Salts (TDS), and Conductivity.
    
    To test for bacteria, you must take your water to a state certified lab.
    
    We also highly recommend having the National Testing Lab test for bacteria and a wide range of contaminants at a reasonable cost. Their number is: 1-800-458-3330. Their website is: www.ntllabs.com

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  • Why don’t your products use salt, chlorine or other Chemicals to treat water problems like other companies’ systems?

    Salt, Chlorine and other Chemicals are not required to disinfect your water, to raise the pH, or to remove iron, sulfur, manganese, bad odors and tastes or to condition water. They also do not remove dirt or sand or prevent or treat salt damage to plants and crops. Further, they are usually highly corrosive, messy and require constant replenishment. We use all natural products instead because they are safe, long-lasting and very very effective.

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  • What do you mean when you say all of your products are “in-line” and “whole-house”?

    All of our products are installed in your water supply line and become a permanent part of your plumbing. You cut your supply line and the line goes in one side of our product and out the other side. Nothing wraps around or clamps on your pipes.
    
    
    All of our products treat your entire home, or business. In some cases if there are multiple houses on the same water supply line they may all be treated. None of our products are installed under your sink or attach to individual faucets.

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  • Why don’t I see your products in home improvement stores?

    For the same reason we don’t sell on-line. We do not mass-market our products because we want you to buy the right products for your particular problems first time, every time. When was the last time employees of big box stores could analyze your water problems then answer all of your questions about how to solve them, then sell you only what you need to solve your particular problems?

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  • How do I know which water treatment products I should purchase?

    First test, then call us and we’ll review your water analysis with you, diagnose the problems, then recommend which product or products will solve them.

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  • What are the terms of your Money Back Guarantee?

    For residential, non-commercial sales, we have an unconditional 90 day from date of purchase guarantee that the product(s) you purchase will work to your complete satisfaction or you may return them pre-paid and your purchase price will be refunded less shipping costs. This guarantee applies if you have your water tested (by us or a reputable lab), test your flow rate (as we tell you how to on this web site and in our brochure), buy the equipment we recommend and install and use it properly.
    
    
    After the 90 day period, your products continue to be under warranty for years and years of care free service…it some cases a lifetime.

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• About Our Sulfer Removers

  • Do you have more than one way to remove sulfur?

    Yes, we have 4 different sulfur removal systems based upon the severity of your sulfur & whether or not you have Iron: our Big Blue Commercial Quality Activated Charcoal Filters for slight or very occasional sulfur; our CARB-X for moderate sulfur up to 3 ppm; and our OPSX for strong sulfur. If you have sulfur AND iron, you will normally need our Model IROX-F unless your iron is very slight.

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  • How do I know which sulfur remover to buy?

    Sulfur dissipates very quickly after a water sample is drawn so a test will be inaccurate unless it’s tested immediately right on-site. However, we’ve been solving sulfur problems for so long, our knowledgeable water treatment professionals will be able to recommend the right sulfur remover based on their discussions with you about the symptoms you observe.
    
    
    Also you can test for sulfur yourself by purchasing a professional testing kit from LaMotte Company that primarily sells to water treatment professionals. It’s easy to use and multiple tests can be done with one kit. Click here for the LaMotte Company contact and test kit information.

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  • Exactly how do the CARB-X, the OPSX, and the IROX-F systems remove sulfur?

    In each case we use the best composite water-conserving mineral tank that has a distributor plate permanently attached to the distribution tube for improved backwash & water conservation. Then we use the best all-natural filter material (Centaur Virgin Activated Carbon for the CARB-X and Manganese Dioxide Ore for the OPSX & IROX-F). Manganese dioxide ore is just an ore mined from the earth then processed into a finely ground, multi-faceted medium that oxidizes your water to bring the sulfur out of solution. Finally, we use the best control valve that has NO metal pistons or parts like most other valves that get “eaten up” by your corrosive sulfur.
    
    Your contaminated water enters the tank through the valve and passes through the media which traps and “holds onto” the sulfur. The IROX-F traps both sulfur and iron. The clean water then travels from the bottom of the tank, up the distributor tube and into your home or business. Periodically, the system then automatically backwashes by forcing water down the distributor tube at high pressure which causes the media to expand and “let go” of all contaminants which are flushed away through a flexible backwash tube on the back of the valve. Because we use no salt, chlorine or chemicals, the backwash water is safe for the environment and many people direct the water onto their trees or landscaping.

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  • How big are the CARB-X, the OPSX and the IROX-F systems?

    In the typical case the tank is 10” in diameter and with the valve mounted on top, 62” tall. The by-pass valve protrudes out the back of the valve by about 3” so if you cube the dimensions, they are 13”x62”. You also need at least 9” more height (total of 71”) to place the valve on the tank. Also if necessary, the tank can be buried in the ground at least 3 feet down if installed under a home with a crawl space or in a well house with a dirt floor.

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  • Are your Sulfur Removers easy to install?

    Yes! In fact, about 80% of our customers install them by themselves or with the help of a friend.
    
    To Install the Big Blue Activated Charcoal Filters you simply cut your water supply line and the line goes in one side of the filter housing and out the other. The housing comes with an extra-heavy-duty mounting bracket to fully support it. You should put shut-off valves on each side of the housing so you can change the filter when needed.
    
    The CARB-X and OPSX sulfur removers (and the IROX-F sulfur and iron remover) each come with a by-pass valve that looks like the letter “H”. Installation is AFTER your Pressure Tank and generally BEFORE other equipment (except a pH Neutralizer), if any. Your water supply line goes into the top left side of the by-pass valve and out the top right side.
    
    The tank is then put into position next to the by-pass valve, the media is poured into the tank, the valve is hand-tightened onto the tank, then hand-tightened onto the by-pass valve. The valve is then plugged into a regular 110v. outlet just to keep the small timer motor running so the system “knows” when to automatically backwash. That’s it….but we still always include very detailed, photographic, A to Z, laminated installation instruction for every step of the process and of course we are here to answer any questions you might have.

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  • How long does the media inside the tank last?

    That can depend on how severe your sulfur problem is and how many people normally use your water, but typically, the media lasts 6 to 8 years before replacement is required.

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  • I already have other water treatment equipment installed to soften the water, but I still have terrible sulfur so can I use your sulfur removal equipment with what’s already there?

    Yes. Salt softeners will never remove sulfur, but all of our equipment is compatible with almost all other types and brands of water treatment equipment. Be sure to tell us what you already have so we can be certain about compatibility, and also so you don’t backwash our sulfur remover and your other equipment at the same time.

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• About Our Iron & Manganese Removers

  • Do you have more than one way to remove iron and manganese?

    Yes, we have 2 different iron and manganese removal systems based upon the severity of your iron and/or manganese, the pH of your water, your flow rate and whether you also have sulfur: our IROX-B for slight to severe iron and slight manganese but no sulfur and where the pH is at least 6.8; and our IROX-F for very severe iron alone, or iron and sulfur, or severe manganese alone or in combination with iron and/or sulfur, and where your pH is between 5 and 9, and your flow rate is at least 7 gallons per minute.

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  • How do I know which iron and manganese remover to buy?

    Testing is a must and our water treatment professionals will review your test results with you and then recommend which system is best. In some cases you will have a choice between the 2 systems.

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  • What’s the difference between “iron” and “rust”?

    “Rust” is the result of metal being oxidized by water or air. If your pressure tank or pipes are steel or galvanized, years of constant contact with water will cause the metal to deteriorate and “rust”. Usually when this happens, the water that comes directly out of your faucet is colored red, brown, black etc. “Iron” in the water source itself is in a dissolved or “ferrous” form. Your water will come out of the faucets clear and clean looking, but upon contact with air will begin to come out of solution and revert back to a “ferric” form where you see staining and iron particles. If you have “rust” rather than “ iron”, we must use media different from that used to remove “iron”.

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  • Exactly how do the IROX-B and IROX-F systems remove iron and manganese?

    There is only one way to remove dissolved, “clear water” ferrous iron and manganese from your water: introduce the water to an oxidizing agent to bring it out of its dissolved, water soluble state, capture it and physically flush it away. Air is an oxidizing agent, but is usually not very effective. Chlorine will oxidize your water, but its very corrosive, hard to regulate and harmful if mishandled. Our systems use all natural, safe & highly effective media to oxidize the water, capture the iron and manganese and then release it during a backwash cycle without using any salt, chlorine or chemicals whatsoever.
    
    
    In each case we use the best composite water-conserving mineral tank that has a distributor plate permanently attached to the distribution tube for improved backwash & water conservation. Then we use the best all-natural filter material (Birm for the IROX-B and Manganese Dioxide Ore for the IROX-F). Birm is a natural granular filter medium and Manganese dioxide ore is just an ore mined from the earth then processed into a finely ground, multi-faceted medium. Both media are “catalytic” in that they both oxidize your water to bring the dissolved iron and manganese out of solution. Finally, we use the best control valve that has NO metal pistons or parts like most other valves that get “eaten up” by your corrosive water.
    Your contaminated water enters the tank through the valve and passes through the media which traps and “holds onto” the iron and manganese. The IROX-F traps iron, manganese and sulfur. The clean water then travels from the bottom of the tank, up the distributor tube and into your home or business. Periodically, the system then automatically backwashes by forcing water down the distributor tube at high pressure which causes the media to expand and “let go” of all contaminants which are flushed away through a flexible backwash tube on the back of the valve. Because we use no salt, chlorine or chemicals, the backwash water is safe for the environment and many people direct the water onto their trees or landscaping.

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  • How big is the IROX-B and the IROX-F ?

    In the typical case, the tank is 10” in diameter and with the valve mounted on top, 62” tall. The by-pass valve protrudes out the back of the valve by about 3” so if you cube the dimensions, they are 13”x62”. You also need at least 9” more height (total of 71”) to place the valve on the tank. Also if necessary, the tank can be buried in the ground at least 3 feet down if installed under a home with a crawl space or in a well house with a dirt floor.

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  • Are your Iron and Manganese Removers easy to install?

    Yes! In fact, about 80% of our customers install them by themselves or with the help of a friend.
    
    They are installed the same way as our Sulfur Remover Models CARB-X, OPSX & IROX-F. Please see the answer to “Are your Sulfur Removers easy to install?” in the FAQ section called “About Our Sulfur Removers” for complete details.

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  • How long does the media inside the tank last?

    That can depend on how severe your iron and manganese problem is and how many people normally use your water, but typically, the media lasts 6 to 8 years before replacement is required.

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  • Can’t I just use a salt softener to remove iron and manganese?

    If you have only a trace of iron or manganese, a good quality salt softener using a special resin cleaner may work. However, salt softeners are not really designed to remove much iron or manganese, so if you have more than a trace of these contaminants they will foul and destroy the softener’s resin at which point the softener will not be able to even soften water. If your water is hard with calcium, lime and magnesium and you want to use a salt softener, install our IROX-B or IROX-F after your pressure tank and BEFORE the softener to effectively remove the iron and manganese, and to save the life of your softening system.

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• About Our Catalytic Water Conditioners

  • How does it work?

    The Care-Free Water Conditioner is an in-line catalytic water treatment system. It operates by a combination of the following:
    
    1. Turbulence of the water through a specially designed catalytic chamber.
    
    2. By the creation of a small electrical field around the chamber casing.
    
    This combination causes a separation of the mineral particles in the water, which changes their behavior.
    
    Particles, which were previously attracted to each other now repel and separate into smaller individual particles. This allows the "separated" mineral particles and salts to flow through the system with minimal interference.
    
    Corrosive gases are released during conditioning and move through the water as harmless bubbles. They are expelled into the atmosphere when water leaves the tap.
    
    To put it simply, the Care-Free Conditioner eliminates the cohesion that exists between the mineral particles in the water.

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  • Where can I use a Care Free Conditioner?

    One of the many advantages of a Care Free Conditioner is that you can use it virtually anywhere you use water. Applications include:
    
    
    • Household / Domestic
    • Irrigation (plants and crops)
    • Agricultural / Nursery / Farm / Vineyard
    • Commercial / Industrial
    • Swimming Pools
    • Golf courses
    • Hydroponics

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  • What type of water will it work on?

    Care Free Conditioners work effectively on water with both high and low mineral concentrations especially lime, calcium carbonate and salty water. They will improve water from all sources including city water, wells, rural water supplies, springs, creeks, rivers and even ponds.

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  • How do I know which Care Free Water Conditioner to buy?

    Care Free Water Conditioners are sized by flow rates, so you must determine your flow rate as described on the “Testing Your Water” page of this website. A typical home will have a flow rate between 5 and 19 gallons per minute, so our Model CF20MKII is sold most often for residential use, but you should still check your flow to be sure.

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  • Why is your Care Free Water Conditioner sized by my flow rate and not by my pipe size?

    Like many different water treatment systems, your water flow rate determines which model Water Conditioner is right for you. Over sizing will result in poor or no performance- Bigger is NOT Better with a Care Free Water Conditioner. It must be sized correctly to create the greatest amount of velocity for best performance.

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  • Won’t I lose water pressure or restrict my water flow to my house if the fittings on the Conditioner are smaller than my pipe size?

    Yes and No. Any friction will cause some head loss, but, provided you abide by our flow rates, this is very minor and completely unperceivable with the typical household Conditioners which are very short in length.

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  • I don’t like the slippery or “slimy” feeling in a shower a salt softener gives you…will I still get that feeling with a Care Free Conditioner?

    No. That feeling is caused by the residual salt a salt softener leaves whether it uses sodium salt or potassium salt, and since a Care Free Conditioner uses no salt, you don’t get that feeling. Instead, your skin and hair will feel smooth and light, but never slippery or slimy.

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  • Is it easy to install?

    Yes. It installs in your main water supply line. The line is cut and goes in one side of the Conditioner and out the other. The unit comes standard with a 110v power regulator that just plugs into regular house current in the typical residential models. Commercial models also come with grounding rods.

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  • How long does a Care Free Water Conditioner last?

    They have a manufacturer’s Lifetime Warranty against manufacturing defects so they are designed to last a lifetime. They are made from commercial, marine-grade solid 316 stainless steel and over 100,000 Care Free Conditioners have been manufactured and sold world-wide to date.

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• About Salt Damage to Plants & Crops

  • How can I tell if my water is salty?

    It’s always best to test, but some common signs your plants are suffering from salty water are if they have brown “tip burn” on their leaves, or if their growth is slow or stunted, or you have to water them excessively and the soil doesn’t seem to be absorbing the water, or if they are not producing normally or not at all.

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  • What level of salinity can be treated by a Care Free Conditioner for irrigation?

    Care Free Water Conditioners are made of 316 Solid Stainless Steel and are proven to make salty water with up to as much as 6,000 ppm, 7,000 ppm and even 8,000 ppm of Total Dissolved Salts (TDS) immediately usable for irrigating.
    We do require that your water be tested first before purchase so we can make absolutely sure it will work great for your specific water quality and application.
    
    Consider also that high levels of salt in the water will cause even higher levels of salt in soil irrigated with that water as the salt builds up and builds up and the soil becomes hard and impermeable.
    

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  • Will watering with a Care Free Conditioner lower the salt level in my soil?

    Yes. Soil analysis tests confirm soil salinity lowered substantially, and by as much as 89% after irrigating only one growing season with a Care Free Conditioner.

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  • Will a Care Free Conditioner save me water in irrigation?

    Yes. Conditioned water is absorbed more rapidly into the ground and therefore reduces evaporation. Also, soil that has been watered with conditioned water is more permeable, so watering time is shortened which saves you 3 valuable resources: water, energy and money.

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• About Our Chlorine, Chlorimines & Organic Chemical Removers

  • I know what chlorine is but what are “chloramines” and why would I have those in my water?

    Chloramines are disinfectants used to treat drinking water. Believe it or not, they are most commonly formed when your water supplier adds ammonia and chlorine to the water to kill bacteria! What a nice combination to consume. Our CARB-X removes both chlorine and chloramines.

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  • What kind of things in my water can your CARB-X remove and how much?

    Under normal conditions our household size CARB-X removes up to 6 to 8 ppm of Chlorine and Chloramines (the EPA Maximum Level [MRDL] currently allowed in drinking water is 4 ppm]; up to 3 ppm Hydrogen Sulfide (Sulfur / “Rotten Egg” Smell) and varying amounts of other organic chemicals and contaminants that make water smell and taste bad.

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  • Why does the CARB-X look just like the Iron, Sulfur & Manganese removers?

    For all of our media systems, we use the best composite water-conserving mineral tank that has a distributor plate permanently attached to the distribution tube for improved backwash & water conservation, and the best control valve that has NO metal pistons or parts like most other valves that get “eaten up” by your corrosive water.
    
    The only difference in the systems is what we put Inside them. The media we use depends on your specific problems. The CARB-X uses Centaur Virgin Activated Carbon which make your water taste even better than bottled water.

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  • How does the CARB-X remove contaminants from the water?

    Your contaminated water enters the water conserving tank through the valve and passes through the media which traps and “holds onto” the contaminants. The clean water then travels from the bottom of the tank, up the distributor tube and into your home or business. Periodically, the system then automatically backwashes by forcing water down the distributor tube at high pressure which causes the media to expand and “let go” of all contaminants which are flushed away through a flexible backwash tube on the back of the valve. Because we use no salt, or chemicals, the backwash water is safe for the environment and many people direct the water onto their trees or landscaping.

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  • How big is the CARB-X?

    In the typical case, the tank is 10” in diameter and with the valve mounted on top, 62” tall. The by-pass valve protrudes out the back of the valve by about 3” so if you cube the dimensions, they are 13”x62”. You also need at least 9” more height (total of 71”) to place the valve on the tank. Also if necessary, the tank can be buried in the ground at least 3 feet down if installed under a home with a crawl space or in a well house with a dirt floor.

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  • Is it easy to install?

    Yes. In fact, about 80% of our customers install them by themselves or with the help of a friend.
    
    They are installed the same way as our Sulfur Remover Models CARB-X, OPSX & IROX-F. Please see the answer to “Are your Sulfur Removers easy to install?” in the FAQ section called “About Our Sulfur Removers” for complete details.

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  • How long does the media in the CARB-X last?

    That can depend on how severe your contamination problem is and how many people normally use your water, but typically, the media lasts 6 to 8 years before replacement is required.

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• About Our Ultra Violet (UV) Disinfection System

  • How does your system work?

    There are 2 or 3 components of this system depending on the Models: both Models include a stainless steel UV Chamber with a UV lamp protected by a quartz sleeve inside; and a Big Blue Commercial quality Filter housing with an extra heavy-duty mounting bracket and wrench and a 5 micron filter. One Model (the MiniRack) also includes a Big Blue Commercial quality Filter Housing with Activated Charcoal filter.
    
    Your water travels through the 5 micron filter (then the Charcoal filter if included), then into the UV chamber and swirls around the UV lamp which is protected by the quartz sleeve. The bacteria is instantly sterilized by this process and the water leaves the chamber and into your house.

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  • How much water can it treat.

    There is no limit to the amount of water it can treat provided you test your flow rate and buy the system designed for your flow rate, and your UV lamp is one year old or less.

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  • Do you have to change your UV lamp every year?

    The lamp will actually burn longer, but the manufacturer recommends changing it every 9,000 hours of continuous use (365+10 days) for maximum performance and to ensure thorough sterilization.

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  • How big is the UV system?

    The UV chambers come in different sizes depending on your flow rate, but the typical stand-alone household unit that handles from 1 to 16 gallons per minute and which may be mounted vertically, horizontally or at any angel is 24-1/4” long and 3-1/2” in diameter. The typical MiniRack Model with 2 filter housings and the UV Chamber all fixed on one bracket and which is only mounted horizontally is 22" high, 24" wide and 9" deep. The Big Blue commercial quality pre-filter is 14” high x 7.5” wide. Allow space for installation of the UV lamps which are as long and the UV chamber, and for installation of of shut off valves on each side of the filter housing.

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  • Is the UV system easy to install?

    Yes. Most of our customers do it themselves or have a friend help.
    
    The water supply line is cut and the supply line goes in one side of the unit and out the other side.
    
    For the stand-alone Model, the preferred angle of installation is vertical but it can be installed horizontally or at any angle. The MiniRack Model with 2 filters and the UV Chamber all one a single mounting rack must be mounted horizontallly.
    
    The Big Blue pre-filter is in-and-out as well and installs vertically. Both the UV and the Big Blue pre-filter come with mounting brackets for easy installation.

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  • The health department report says “coliform-P” and “E.coli-A”- What does that mean?

    The lab tests your water first for Total coliform bacteria which is not a kind of bacterium but is a large group of bacteria found in the environment and in the feces of all warm-blooded animals and humans.
    
    “P” stands for “Presence” so if there’s the presence of coliform bacteria in your water that indicates disease-causing pathogens could be in your water. The lab then usually tests for Fecal coliform or E.coli which is a sub-group of fecal coliform because it can be so dangerous. “A” stands for “Absence” so you don’t have E.coli, but you still have some kind of bacteria that could cause disease so you should still disinfect your water with the UV sterilizer.

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  • Can’t I just dump some bleach down my well to kill bacteria?

    No. First of all, you should never just dump large amounts of bleach in your well. This is not safe and there are specific guidelines for how much chlorine you should use to disinfect a well depending on the well’s depth and techniques to ensure safety.
    
    Second, one-time chlorination often does not permanently kill the bacteria, and constant chlorination is messy, potentially dangerous and hard to regulate.
    
    Third, there are bacteria that are resistant to chlorine and these bacteria are almost never tested for. Giardia is highly resistant to chlorine and Cryptosporidium, a known killer, is almost completely resistant to chlorine but both are effectively sterilized by UV!

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• About Our pH Neutralizers

  • What is pH ?

    pH is a measure of how acidic or how basic (alkaline) your water is. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with 7.0 being completely neutral (neither acidic nor alkaline). As pH goes down the scale, it becomes more and more acidic and corrosive. A pH lower than 7.0 can corrode and destroy metal, including your pipes and fixtures. Even if your pipe is PVC or PEX, you may have copper fixtures or brass fittings on PEX.

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  • What are some signs of low pH?

    Green or blue-green stains appear when copper or other metal are being destroyed by low pH. Pinhole or pitting of pipes is another sign.

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  • How can I raise the pH of my water?

    There are basically two methods. The first involves constantly mixing and injecting soda ash into the water which is often messy and labor intensive. The second method is to use finely ground marbleized limestone to raise the pH automatically and consistently. Our pH Neutralizer uses the 2nd method with natural media called Corosex and Calcite. As water passes through the system, a small amount of the media dissolves which and automatically raises the pH to 7.0 or neutral.

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  • Does the media have to be replaced?

    It has to be replenished or added to periodically. Our typical system comes with 1.5 cubic feet of media which, depending on your pH level and water usage, will only need to have a small amount added every 9 to 12 months.

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  • Does it backwash?

    Yes. It’s set to automatically backwash every 6 days. This fluffs up the media so it doesn’t become compacted. The backwash water is harmless and most people direct it onto their trees or landscape.

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  • What makes your pH Neutralizer better than others?

    First of all, water with a low pH “eats up” metal, so we use the best control valve that has NO metal pistons or parts like most other valves that get destroyed by your corrosive water.
    Also, we use Corosex along with Calcite media so we can raise a pH as low as 4.5 up to 7.0 neutral.
    
    We also use the best mineral tank that has a convenient “dome hole” for adding media when needed rather than having to disassemble your plumbing to add the media like most systems. And of course we have our money-back guarantee.

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  • How big is the pH Neutralizer?

    In the typical case, the tank is 10” in diameter and with the valve mounted on top, 62” tall. The by-pass valve protrudes out the back of the valve by about 3” so if you cube the dimensions, they are 13”x62”. You also need at least 9” more height (total of 71”) to place the valve on the tank. Also if necessary, the tank can be buried in the ground at least 3 feet down if installed under a home with a crawl space or in a well house with a dirt floor.

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  • Is it easy to install?

    Yes. In fact, about 80% of our customers install them by themselves or with the help of a friend.
    
    They are installed the same way as our Sulfur Remover Models CARB-X, OPSX & IROX-F. Please see the answer to “Are your Sulfur Removers easy to install?” in the FAQ section called “About Our Sulfur Removers” for complete details.

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• About Our Big Blue Filters

  • Aren’t your Big Blue filters like the one’s I’ve seen at Lowe’s and other hardware stores?

    No. Our Filters and Filter Housings are “Commercial Quality”. The housings are extra heavy duty and have a pressure release valve on top and come with a spanner wrench to make changing filters easy. The mounting bracket alone weighs 3 pounds so it can fully support the housing. The 5 micron filters are the longest-lasting on the market and are of such quality that they can be pressure cleaned with a garden hose spray nozzle at least once and re-used. The carbon filters are also the longest lasting and highest quality of their kind.

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  • Does your 5 micron filter take out more sediment than a 30 micron filter or is it the other way around?

    The smaller the micron, the smaller the size of particles that can be removed. A grain of sand or human hair is often around 70 microns, so while 30 microns is small, 5 microns actually takes out microscopic organisms, organic and inorganic particles that cloud water and make it turbid.

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  • Can I use a sediment filter to remove iron?

    No, this is not an effective way to remove iron. While you might capture some iron in a sediment filter, because iron is dissolved in the water, most of it will pass on through and come out of solution in your home. You would also have to change filters constantly. We recommend using our IROX-B or IROX-F iron removers that are specifically designed to remove iron.

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• About Our Sand Eliminators

  • How do I know if I need a Big Blue sediment filter or a SandMaster Plus?

    The weight of the debris, not the size of it, determines which one to select. If you pour water into a glass and “swirl” the water with a spoon and the particles settle to the bottom within 30 seconds or less, the SandMaster Plus will work great for your problem. If the particles take longer to settle to the bottom, or never settle at all, you need the Big Blue 5 micron filter because those particles are suspended and would pass right through the SandMaster Plus.

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  • How big is the SandMaster Plus?

    The size depends upon your flow rate, but the typical household model (10 to 20 gallons per minute) 21” high by 4.5” in diameter and weighs 8 pounds.

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  • Is it easy to install and operate?

    Yes. It installs in your water supply line after your pump and before your pressure tank. Like all of our products, you cut your supply line and the line goes in one side and out the other. After installation, you don’t have to do a thing except change the 9 volt battery on the Automatic Purge Valve when necessary.

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• About Our Aqua Pure Hot Water Protection System

  • Aren’t all the white “spots” I have on my fixtures and glassware caused by hard water?

    Testing is the only way to know for sure. High levels of Total Dissolved Solids and Salts (TDS) also cause white spotting especially in hot water applications because the heat makes them come out of solution more quickly. If the spots wipe off easily, your water is generally not very hard. If the spots are calcified and hard to remove, your water is probably hard also. Many people that have hard water also have high levels of TDS.

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  • Why does the Aqua Pure have to be installed in the cold water supply line immediately before the hot water heater?

    Only a small amount of the special USDA & NSF approved food grade material inside the Aqua Pure dissolves so it can’t travel too far in the supply line. Putting it just before the cold water line tee’s off into the hot water heater ensures it will get into the hot water heater and hot water lines.

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  • How often do I need to change the cartridge?

    This depends on your water usage, but typically a cartridge will last a year.

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